Sunday, May 24, 2015

Length Retention Overhaul



This will be a long post, but it is about attaining and maintaining long natural hair... so it's okay!

If you know me, you know that I love sharing about my hair story/hair Journeys and anything I learn regarding natural hair maintenance.  I cut my locs out a little over 3 years ago (NOT A BIG CHOP) and have been growing my hair out freely since then. Many people say that I change my hair a lot. I don’t think that I do, because to me, it is always in a nappy, kinky, coily state (twists and afros).  I use the word “nappy” in a loving way to accurately describe my hair.  Until now, I was only concerned with the health and fullness of my hair and not so much concerned with the length. So length checks were casual and unnecessary and I didn’t really style my hair (updos, braids, curls, fancy stuff, etc.) unless I was attending an event or special occasion.
Now that my hair has grown passed my shoulders and I want to turn my focus to length retention. I have been reviewing YouTube and various Hair Blogs for tips on how to maintain and retain length.  My ultimate goal is to achieve waist length, stretched (not straightened) hair.  I have decided to start with keeping my hair as stretched as possible, incorporating protective styles throughout the winter months, and focusing on moisturizing & sealing my hair on (almost) daily basis.
I am passing some of the “long hair, does care” length retention tips I have found.

Acknowledge and Appreciate your Hair Achievements. Example of my Hair Achievements in the past 3 years of growth:

  • Learned to accept my beauty with a Teeny Weeny Afro (TWA)
  • Learned about my (various) curl patterns and hair type and how to manipulate/maintain my hair in a healthy way
  • Learned which products and ingredient work best for my hair (and skin)
  • Achieved jawbone length hair
  • Learned to consistently achieve natural hair styling methods at every length of growth on my own without help from a professional or friend
  • Achieved afro puff (pineapple) length
  • Learned about what kinds of foods work best for my body and hair
  • Learned how to prepare henna and color my hair naturally
  • Achieved shoulder length
  • Learned how to style using extensions/weave
  • Achieved bra strap length

Recipes:

Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) Rinse

  • 1 part organic ACV
  • 3 parts water
  • Mix in a squeeze bottle and saturate scalp and hair with ACV rinse
  • Gently scrub SCALP with PADS of fingers (not fingernails)
  • Then rinse out (optional to wash out). Note: Optional to wash out if you plan to follow with additional hair treatments that require rinsing. The smell of ACV will fade after use of shampoo or conditioner.

Mayo Egg Conditioner Treatment

  • 1 cup Mayo,
  • 1 egg,
  • ¼ cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil (organic or natural preferably)
  • (Optional: 1 tbsp of clay, 1 tbsp of honey, 1 tbsp of coconut oil, half an avocado)

  • Mix the ingredients and eliminate lumps until smooth.
  • Cover hair (roots to ends) with conditioner treatment
  • Place plastic conditioning cap and let sit in hair for at least an hour (heat optional)
  • Rinse with lukewarm water. Hot water may cause egg to cook and stick to hair.
      
Leave-in Conditioner Recipe

  • 1 oz Organic Aloe Vera Juice,
  • 1 oz Leavein Conditioner,
  • 1 tbsp of organic Jojoba Oil,
  • 1 tbsp of Organic Castor Oil,
  • 1 tbsp of hair cream
  • Cover hair (roots to ends) with leave-in conditioner
  • Style as usual
      
Protein Treatment

  • 3 eggs
  • ½ cup of Extra Virgin Olive Oil (organic or natural preferably)
  • Mix together, then cover hair (roots to ends) with mixture
  • Place plastic conditioning cap and let sit in hair for at least an hour (heat optional)
  • Rinse with lukewarm water. Hot water may cause egg to cook and stick to hair.

Hair Care Tips (My own and from around the interweb):

  • Drink Water, Wash/Cowash your hair, and use water when adding moisture to your hair.  Oils and creams are no substitute for water.
  • Do not cut your hair or routinely trim/dust your ends. Only trim your hair as required or you will be constantly taking away from your length.
  • Incorporate protective styles that last 1 to 4 weeks (or more). This includes braids, twists, buns, sew-in weaves, wigs, etc
  • Incorporate low manipulation styles into your look – requiring little to no heat. This includes braids, twists, buns, sew-in weaves, wigs, puffs, heat-free curls and coils (Bantu knots, twist-outs, etc).
  • Even when your hair is in low manipulation styles or protective styles, make sure you do a moisture retention regiment at least once a week.  Examples: Use a hair steamer, do a hot oil treatment, wash your hair, do the LOC Method, etc
  • The less you touch your hair between washes the better.
  • Do not pull hair too tightly for braided, twisted or weaves styles
  • Little to No heat: No curling irons, blow dryers, hot combs… I will use a hair steamer or heat cap for conditioning
  • Deep condition as often as you wash/co-wash your hair
  • Practice Patience and forgive yourself for mistakes or blunders
  • Try Silica, Biotin, HairFINITY
  • Try hot oil treatments with natural oils (i.e., coconut oil, jojoba oil, EVOO, Sweet Almond, Avocado, Grapeseed, etc)
  • After washes, between hairstyles, and as a nighttime routine, make sure to moisturize (water or leavein) and seal (oil) your hair.
  • Try the LOC method, Liquid + Oil + Cream or Leave-in + Oil + Cream, to moisturize and seal hair.
  • Try the Maximum Hydration Method (MHM)
  • Be mindful of the tools you use in your hair. Do not pull hair ties too tight, do not pull or push hair pins harshly through hair or into scalp, be conscious of using rubber bands to hold hair in place (roots or ends)
  • Try a seamless wide tooth comb
  • Put the tools down and try finger detangling.
  • Detangle when hair is wet and saturated with conditioner (for slip). Try not to comb or pick your hair when it is dry
  • Embrace your shrinkage!  That is what gives your hair volume and density.
  • Stick to a healthy hair regiment (wash, condition, deep condition, and hair treatment that work for you when needed) and nightly routine (moisturize, put hair away, and satin cap)
      
My daily moisture retention routine (I typically do this at night or whenever my hair needs to be moisturized between washes)

  • I separate my hair into 4 -10 sections, depending on the desired maintenance/hair style.
  • I spritz a section of my hair with water, add a leave-in conditioner, then finger detangle.
  • I add a homemade oil mixture then finger detangle.
  • I add a homemade Shea butter mixture cream, then finger detangle.
  • Next, I will two-strand twisting my hair.
  • At this point I can (1) let my hair dry and then release the twists and go, (2) use bobby pins and create a twisted up-do, or (3) put on a satin cap and go to bed.

Products I’m using right now

  • Homemade Shea butter and Coconut butter Mix
  • Various homemade Oil Mixtures
  • Trader Joes Tingling Tea Tree Oil Conditioner
  • Shea Moisture Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo OR
  • Shea Moisture Jamaican Black Castor Oil Strengthen,
  • Shea Moisture Grow & Restore Leave-In Conditioner
  • Mayo & Egg Deep Conditioner
  • Henna from Mehandi.com for gray coverage
  • Homemade Rhassoul and Benonite Cleansing Clay mixture
  • Secura Hair Steamer

This was a long post (told you!), but if you want to know more, just ask me :-)

Be well... Mickel

My thoughts on natural hair right now...




Protect (save) your hair, not the style.


I am the most naturally beautiful woman I know. I seek to obtain the highest level of my own standard of beauty and do not wish to attain anyone else’s beauty traits.  Develop your own standard of beauty, and then set yourself on top of it.

You are not Tracee Ellis Ross so you cannot have Tracee Ellis Ross’ hair, but you can practice attaining Tracee Ellis Ross’ hairstyle. Fill in your own hair crush’s name.

I am waiting for the day that being called a “natural girl” is unnecessary.  I would like for curly/kinky/nappy hair to be a viewed as regular everyday hair, no different from straight blonde hair. I want it to be as desirable as straight blonde hair seems to be.

No other race is referring to themselves as “naturals”.  When I think about it, all my black/blackish ex-boyfriends were all “naturals”.  A lot of my coworkers (non-blacks) have all been “naturals”. Hell, most of the people we interact with are “naturals” but they just consider themselves to be regular people with regular, yet diverse, hair. I want my curly/kinky hair to be considered regular hair like everyone else. 

Do you think of my perspective right now? 

Be well... Mickel